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Hello my fellow yarnies! If you use social media then you may have noticed that tassels appear to be trending right now (did they really ever go away?). In response to the explosion of tassels appearing on all sorts of things, & the fact that many of you may never have made them before, I thought it would be fun to explore what tassels are, uncover their intriguing history, discover how they can add personality to your knit or crochet creations, & I'm even going to walk you through making your own tassels. This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! So, grab your yarn, & let's get started on this tassel journey! What are tassels? A glimpse into the history of tassels Tassels in your creations Making your own tassels - step by step Conclusion Beginner friendly patterns What are tassels? So, what exactly are tassels? Well, tassels are those delightful, dangling ornaments often seen at the corners of scarves, blankets, hats, bags & yes, even curtains. Imagine tiny little bundles of yarn, suspended from a string, adding a touch of quirkiness to your handmade masterpieces. Tassels are like the cherries on top of a sundae – they can be that finishing touch that makes your creations stand out. A brief glimpse into tassel history Believe it or not, tassels have been adorning textiles for centuries. They have a rich history that spans both time periods, & cultures. Ancient Egyptians were among the first to embrace tassels, adorning their garments & home textiles with these alluring additions. These tufted treasures held significance beyond their decorative charm. They were symbols of power & status, denoting rank & authority in the grand tapestry of society. Fast-forward to the opulent era of the Renaissance. Think extravagant courts, shimmering gowns, & tapestries that told tales in threads. Tassels, were at the heart of this artistic indulgence. They swung from the drapery of castles, decorated the robes of kings & queens, & cascaded down sumptuous textiles. Each tassel was a stroke of artistry, a proclamation of luxury. Asia too, adopted the use of tassels. In China, intricate silk tassels adorned beautiful garments, carrying blessings and protection. In the bustling bazaars of the Middle East, tassels swung from textiles, evoking the spirit of the nomadic tribes. As the world evolved, so did the role of tassels. No longer confined to royal robes & palace drapery, they found their way into our everyday lives. The 20th century saw tassels dancing on lampshades, parasols, earrings, & even graduation caps. The once-symbolic adornment transformed into a playful embellishment, adding a touch of playful charm to the ordinary. From the Pharaohs to the present day, tassels have spun tales of power, artistry, & personal expression. With every tassel that adorns our creations, we weave our own stories into the intricate tapestry of time, ensuring that these dangling delights continue to sway with grace & elegance for generations to come. Tassels in your creations Now that we've uncovered the essence of tassels, let's explore how these delightful adornments can enhance your knit & crochet projects, even if you're just starting out. 1. Expressive edge: Tassels provide a fun & creative way to add a touch of your own personality to your projects. Whether you're knitting a cosy scarf or crocheting a chic handbag, tassels can be customized to match your unique style. Play with colour, length, & texture to create a look that's distinctly yours. 2. Simple elegance: Tassels might seem intricate, but they're surprisingly easy to make, making them a perfect addition for beginners. You only need a few basic materials – yarn, scissors, & a tassel maker (or small piece of cardboard) – to create these charming accents. It's a wonderful opportunity to practice your crafting skills & see immediate results. 3. Balance & finesse: Tassels can provide a visual balance to your projects. If you're working on a scarf, for instance, & feel like something is missing, a pair of tassels at the ends can provide that much-needed symmetry & style. They can easily turn an ordinary piece into an extraordinary one. Making your own tassels: Step-by-Step guide So, now that you know all there is to know about tassels, let me walk you through creating your very own. You can find a video tutorial on my Youtube channel or follow these simple steps: 1. Gather materials: Collect your chosen yarn, a pair of scissors, & a tassel maker, piece of cardboard or your fingers. 2. Measure: Decide how long you want your tassel to be. Choose a tassel maker that stretches to that length or cut a piece of cardboard about that length. Next, cut a piece of yarn, roughly double the length that you want your tassel to be. This will become the "dangling" part of your tassel. Cut another strand of yarn about half that length. This will be used to create the knotted "top" of your tassel. 3. Wrap yarn: If you're using a tassel maker, open it out to the length you require & secure your working yarn into the left hand "join". Then, take your tassel maker, cardboard (or even your fingers) & start wrapping your yarn around the length of it. The more you wrap, the fuller your tassel will be. Aim for around 20-30 wraps for a nice, fluffy tassel. 4. Secure: If you're using a tassel maker, hook the end of your working yarn into the right "join" & then cut your working yarn. Then, use the first piece of yarn that you cut earlier to wrap around the middle of the yarn on the tassel maker & tie a knot to secure the yarn (scroll through the images below to see each step). This will become the "dangling" part of your tassel. If you have used cardboard (or your fingers), gently slide the wrapped yarn off the cardboard or your fingers, & cut your working yarn. Then, carefully insert the first piece of yarn you cut earlier through one end. Tie a tight knot at the top to secure the loops. This will become the "dangling" part of your tassel. 5. Cut: If you have used a tassel maker, slide your scissors along the grooves at the top & bottom & cut the yarn. This will create the fringed bottom of your tassel. If you have used cardboard or your fingers, slide your scissors through the loops at the opposite end to the knot & cut them. This will create the fringed bottom of your tassel. 6. Create the knotted top of your tassel: Now take the second piece of yarn that you cut earlier & tie this securely around the "top" of your tassel, I tied mine about 1cm down for a 7cm tassel, you can place yours at whatever position you prefer. This knotted part will become the rounded "top" of your tassel. 7. Shape: Use your scissors to give it a little trim, taking off small pieces at a time. For a classic looking tassel, cut straight across to create a flat bottom & for a pompom style tassel, give the bottom a more rounded shape. That's it, you've got yourself a tassel! Conclusion: Tassel, your way As we wrap up our tassel adventure, remember that these little yarn wonders are like the sprinkles on a cupcake – they add that extra touch that turns the ordinary into something extraordinary. Tassels offer a fantastic opportunity for beginners to experiment & create, adding personality to their knit & crochet projects without getting tangled in technicalities. To help you embrace your inner fibre artist, I have linked to some of my favourite beginner friendly patterns that also include tassels below. Patterns The Lotus Flower Clutch by Veronika Cromwell You will find a free version of this cute crocheted bag on Veronika's blog, or you can download the PDF version here. The Tea house wrap by Alexandra Tavel A free version of this crocheted wrap can be found on Alexandra's blog here, or if you prefer a downloadable PDF, you will find that here. So, all that's left to do is gather your supplies, & let the tassels sway as you proudly showcase your one-of-a-kind creations to the world! Happy crafting! A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed this tutorial & little history lesson! I would love to see your finished tassels. Don't forget to tag me @duffyscraftdays if you post your version's on social media so I can see them too 😊

I may have mentioned before that we seem to accumulate a lot of jars in our house, it's actually crazy how many we seem to go through in a month. Anyway, it pains me to just put them in the recycling - yes, I know that it means they get a new life, but I still think about how melting them down & remanufacturing them into something else seems a waste of resources - It's better than them going to landfill, obviously but I prefer to upcycle them if I can, especially as they are so useful for holding all sorts of bits & bobs.. So today, I thought I would share my "Not so granny" jar cosy pattern with you so that you can also do some upcycling, if that's your thing! This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! There is also a PDF version available in my Ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores for a small fee, if you prefer to be able to print off a pattern & avoid the adverts. Which yarn should you choose for your jar cosy? I used Hayfield Bonus Aran in the shade Lagoon blue. This is a 100% acrylic yarn so I wouldn't recommend it if you were thinking of putting candles in the jar, but I knew that I wanted to use these particular jars for storing things like buttons & safety pins so it was fine. This yarn comes in 43 beautiful shades & is super soft - incidentally at the time of writing this post this yarn is currently on sale at Lovecrafts for just £2.42 per ball. I used approx 20 grams, so a 100gm ball should make 4 cosies - a conservative estimate. You could also use you're preferred aran weight yarn in your favourite colour, especially if you already have some left overs in your stash. For this pattern, I will be using UK Terminology throughout as follows: Terms used in the pattern Chain (ch) double crochet (dc) half treble crochet (htr) slip stitch (sl st) stitches (st's) If you are new to the half treble crochet stitch here is a photo tutorial: If you would prefer a video tutorial, you can find one here. Materials Hayfield Bonus Aran in the shade Lagoon blue (607) & for the striped version, I added the shade Platinum (559) 5mm crochet hook A jar approx 15cm tall x 24cm in circumference Stitch marker Darning needle Tension 10 stitches x 13 rows measures 10cm x 10cm. Finished size Approx 27cm circumference x 13cm tall Pattern The cosy is worked by forming the base first in rounds & once it is the right size for the base of your jar, the sides are formed. Base The base is formed using the Amigurumi method of not slip stitching the end of each round to the beginning but by continuing the pattern so that a spiral shape is formed. Popping a stitch marker into the first stitch of each round will help you to keep track of which round you are on. Round 1: Create a magic loop, ch1, then work 6dc into it. Pull tail to close loop. (6st’s). Round 2: 2dc into each st around. (12 st’s). Round 3: 2dc in 1st st, *1dc into the next st,2dc into the next st. Repeat from * to the end of the round. (18 st’s). Round 4: 2dc in 1st st, *1dc into each of the next 2 st’1, 2dc into the next st. Repeat from * to the end of the round. (24 st’s). Round 5: 2dc in 1st st, *1dc into each of the next 3 st’s, 2dc into the next st.Repeat from * to the end of the round. (30 st’s). Round 6: 2dc in 1st st, *1dc into each of the next 4st’s, 2dc into the next st. Repeat from * to the end of the round. (36 st’s). At this point check the fit of your base against the bottom of the jar. If it’s a good fit, continue the "building the sides" section of the pattern. If your base is still too small, continue working in rounds, adding 6 st’s evenly to each new round. Start building the sides Round 7: ch2 (does not count as a st), miss the 1st st, *2htr in next st, miss next st. Repeat from * to the the last 3 st’s. Miss 3rd st from end, 2htr in next st, 1htr in st with the ch2. Sl st to top of beg ch2. (36 sts). Round 8: Ch2, *2htr into the space created by missing the stitches between htr’s, miss next st. Repeat from * to last 2st’s, miss next st, 2htr in next space, ch1, sl st to top of ch3. (36 st’s). Round 9: ch2, miss the 1st st, *2htr in next space, miss next st. Repeat from * to last 3 st’s. Miss 3rd st from end, 2htr in next space, 1htr in st with the ch2. Sl st to top of beg ch2. (36 sts). This is how your cosy should look as it progresses: Continue repeating rounds 8 & 9 until you have worked 23 rounds or until you reach the desired height for your cosy. Fasten off & Weave in ends. To form the striped version, I changed colour after rounds 9, 14, & 18. When changing colour, remember to introduce the new colour on the last yarn over of the last stitch of the previous round. I also decided to cover the lids on my version with some offcuts of grey fabric that I had already & a hot glue gun. They didn't end up looking how I had envisioned so I yhink I need a little more practice with my glue gun technique. 😂 A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. You can comment below to let me know how you found it & if you use social media, you can tag me @duffyscraftdays.

The first crochet pattern I ever formally designed was for this crochet footstool cover. I had been gifted an old footstool & wanted to make a removable crocheted cover for it but found it really hard to find one that was the right dimensions & when I did, I felt they were over-priced. So I decided to design my own. In this post I will detail the steps I took to transform this battered old footstool, which literally had the inner foam showing through, into a modern crocheted footstool that would look great in anyone's home. In this post I will show you: The items that I used (The things you will need if you want to do this yourself). How I made good the worn & torn areas to stop them from further deteriorating under the new cover. How I worked out the measurements for making the new cover. How I made a fitted fabric cover. How I made the removable, washable crocheted footstool cover. If you would prefer a downloadable PDF version of the crocheted footstool cover only, it is available in my Ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores for a small fee. This post may contain affiliate links. As a Lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! The Items that I used for this upcycling project. An old, roughly square shaped footstool. Duct tape. Tape measure. Fabric shears or sharp scissors. Tailors chalk or a fabric pen. Fabric - I used an old bed sheet. Sewing pins. Sewing machine or hand sewing needle. Sewing thread to match the colour of your fabric. Upholstery needle. Upholstery thread - this is the one I used. Yarn - I used 13 balls of Deramores Studio Anti-Pilling Chunky in the colour sterling. This is a 100% acrylic yarn & is machine washable at 40c making it a great choice for a footstool cover. 5.5mm crochet hook. Stitch markers. Darning needle. How I made good the worn & torn areas. So the first thing I had to do was stop the damaged areas of the footstool form getting any worse. Some of the foam inside was showing through & the last thing I wanted was that foam working it's way out underneath the new cover! As you can see, the original footstool was in a sorry state & some people may have felt it was ready to be skipped. That's the whole point of upcycling though - if there was no damage, it wouldn't need to be done! I had faith that it could be transformed & made useful again. The first thing I did was raid my husbands shed for Duct tape. I covered all of the damaged areas with the tape to seal in the inner foam & prevent the original cover from deteriorating further. So, at this point you might be thinking that the footstool looks worse than it did to start with but trust me, it does get better! If you're wondering why I'm making a fabric cover when I'm supposed to be making a crocheted cover, the answer is simple. Crochet can create a reasonably dense fabric but the reality is that you're almost certainly going to be able to see through it in some areas - and I definitely did not want that duct tape to be visible & ruin the final effect! 🙈 So I would definitely recommend making a fabric cover first in a similar colour to the yarn that you will be using for the removable crochet cover. How I worked out the measurements for making the new cover. I started by measuring the height, depth & width of the footstool. Mine measured 38cm high by 43cm wide & long (it's square at the top). I added 2 times the height & 1 times the width/depth which equalled 119cm. This was the measurement I would need for the width/depth of my fabric & I added 5.5cm all the way around to account for folding under the footstool (more on that later). So my total measurement was 130cm x 130 cm. If the top of your footstool is rectangular rather than square, your width & depth measurements will differ & you will need to do this measurement twice. Once for the width & once for the depth. Next I measured my fabric. You'll notice I didn't iron mine first, that's because I knew that I was giving myself a generous allowance & that it would end up covered in lovely squishy yarn anyway. If, however I had been planning to make the fabric cover my final cover or I didn't have a generous allowance for tucking under at the end, I would definitely have ironed the fabric before measuring & cutting. Next I marked my measurement at several points across the fabric with tailors chalk (You could also use a fabric pen) before joining the marks using a ruler. I did this for both the width & the depth measurements. How I made a fitted fabric cover for the footstool. Once I had my measurements marked out, I cut my fabric using tailors shears (You could also use a sharp pair of scissors), being careful to stick to the line I had marked out. Once my fabric was cut, I placed it over the footstool with the right side (the final outer side of the fabric) face down. I tried to get it as evenly placed as possible so that the amount it hangs over by, was roughly the same on all four sides. Next, I tucked the excess fabric underneath the stool on each side. This left me with excess fabric on each corner like this .... This excess at the corners is what I worked with to create my seams. First I held the fabric at one of the corners at the point that it meets the top corner of the footstool & inserted a pin. I continued pinning down the edge of this corner & repeated for each of the four corners, being careful not to pin too tightly against the footstool or I would never get it back off to sew it up! Now I removed the fabric from the footstool by lifting it straight up & being careful not to knock out any of the pins in the process. Next I baste stitched those corners. I did this by machine but you could also do it by hand. If you aren't sure what baste stitching is, then I would definitely recommend having a look on cucicucicoo.com I'm not affiliated in any way with Lisa, I just think it's a great site & she also provides some great up-cycling ideas. After baste-stitching I tried the cover on the footstool (still inside out) & checked the fit. This is how my cover started to take shape after baste-stitching... I wasn't completely happy with the fit, it needed to be a little tighter. So I re-pinned in the area's that needed tightening & removed the baste-stitching before repeating re-basting & trying the cover for fit again. This time I was happy! So I cut some of the excess away to make it easier for sewing, re-pinned, removed the baste-stitching again & did my final stitching using a straight stitch with a length of 2.5mm. I now tried the cover on the footstool inside out, one last time. It was perfect so I was able to trim the seam allowance down to around 1cm. I then ironed the seam allowance flat so that the corners wouldn't be bulky. I then turned the cover the right side out & fitted it onto the footstool. Now, my footstool has a metal base which meant I couldn't just fix the bottom of the fabric in place at this point. This was simple to remove though. With the cover in place, I turned the footstool upside down & used a screwdriver to remove the base. After removing the base I was able to fold over the excess fabric from the bottom of the new cover. I did each side in turn. For each side, I first turned the excess under by about 1cm, next I pinned it down onto the base of the footstool, making sure to also turn in the corners so that they didn't become too bulky. Once all four sides were pinned, I used upholstery thread & an upholstery needle to secure the fabric in place. I wasn't overly concerned about how neat this looked as it's only going to be seen by the carpet! You could also use a staple gun for this part if you have one. I then replaced the metal base & the fitted cover was complete. 🎉 How I made the removable, washable crocheted footstool cover. For the crochet cover, I will be using UK terms throughout. Abbreviations & stitches that I used: st - stitch(es) ch - Chain dc - double crochet tr - treble crochet dtr - double treble crochet Tension. 14 stitches x 4 rows equals 10 cm x 10cm. Pattern. I decided to use treble crochet stitches for the main part as I like the simple, clean lines that I knew this would give. Top panel. Foundation Row: I made a slip knot & then ch62. Row 1 – 1tr in 2nd ch from hook. 1tr in each ch to end. Ch2. Turn. (60 st’s). Row’s 2 – 32 – 1tr in same st as ch2. 1tr in each st to end. Ch2. Turn. (60 st’s). Row 33 – 1tr in same st as ch2. 1tr in each st across. (60 st’s). I then fastened off & weaved in the ends. I placed this to one side until all of the panels were completed. Side panels. Foundation Row: I made a slip knot & then ch60 Row 1 – 1tr in 2nd ch from hook. 1tr in each ch to end. Ch2. Turn. (58 st’s). Row’s 2 – 28 – 1tr in same st as ch2. 1tr in each st to end. Ch2. Turn. (58 st’s). Row 29 – Skip 1st & 2nd st. 1tr in 3rd st & each st across until you have 2 st’s remaining. Ch2. Turn. (54 st’s). Row 30 - 1tr in same st as ch2. 1tr in each st across. (54 st’s). I then fastened off & weaved in the ends. I placed this to one side & made three more, exactly the same. Making Up. Once all panels were completed, In took each side panel in turn, & used the foundation row edge to join to the top panel. Holding the wrong sides together I used 60dc st’s evenly spaced along the edge to join (1tr, 1ch, 1dtr, 1ch, 1tr in each corner). The picture below shows how I placed stitch markers to hold each piece in place & also to divide up each panel for picking up stitches. Once all of the side panels had been attached to the top, I used the same method to join each side panel to the one next to it, working from top to bottom & using 54dc st’s. Finishing off. Once all of the side panels had been joined to each other, I finished off by fastening off & weaving in all of the ends. All that was left to do was to place it over the footstool. I didn't fasten it in place, it just sits over it so that it can easily be removed for washing. A final note! I really hope you've found this free tutorial useful. If you use it to make your own version of a crocheted footstool cover l would love to see it.. You can comment below to let me know how you found it or you can tag me on your favourite social media channel using the links below.

According to figures on the Cancer Research UK website, there were around 17 million new cases of cancer worldwide in 2018 alone (the latest figures available at time of writing). That makes it likely that even if you haven't personally faced cancer yourself, a loved one may have, & you will be all too familiar with the resulting emotional trauma & physical pain that come from diagnosis, through treatment & can even linger years after you are in remission. That is why throughout the month of February, to coincide with National Cancer Prevention Month (in the US), The Crochet Designer Community group on Facebook decided to hold a Pattern Hop. This pattern hop has now ended but why not visit the Crochet Designer Community group on Facebook anyway to see what other promotions might be on. Every featured pattern is for something you can make to bring comfort to someone who is having treatment for, or recovering from cancer. This can be for someone you know, or to donate to a local hospital or hospice. What is a Pattern Hop? Each day a different designer will feature either 1 or 2 patterns which you will be able to get at either a heavily discounted price, or for free using a coupon code on that day only. Each day's pattern will go live at 6am EST / 11am GMT for 24 hours only. To get the discount code or code's you will need to visit the Crochet Designer Community page on Facebook. I will post the featured pattern for each day on my Instagram & Facebook accounts at around 11am GMT / 6am EST so that you know what's on offer each day, & can then visit the Facebook Crochet Designer Community page. What patterns can you expect to find? There will be a variety of patterns including hats, shawls, blankets & bags as well as toys for children dealing with cancer. All of these patterns can be made to bring comfort to those who are facing a very difficult time. Below are the patterns that will be featured for week 1 (1st - 5th February 2023). Below are a selection of the patterns you can get during week 2 of the Pattern Hop (6th - 12th February 2023). Below are a selection of the patterns you can get during week 3 of the Pattern Hop (13th - 19th February 2023).] Below are a selection of the patterns you can get during week 4 of the Pattern Hop (20th - 26th February 2023). Below are a selection of the patterns you can get during week 5 of the Pattern Hop (27th - 28th February 2023). This pattern hop has now ended but why not visit the Crochet Designer Community page on Facebook to see what other promotions might be on 😊 I know that cancer is something that no one ever wants to have to face, but if you or someone you love are facing it, I know this Hop won't make it go away but hopefully it might bring some comfort to know that people really do want to help. You can also visit the Cancer research UK website for more information & details on how you can cope physically, mentally & with practical things too. As someone who has watched too many people I love, face cancer, I hope you will believe that my heart genuinely goes out to you as I'm sure many others do too. X

Have you ever wanted to knit your own gloves but didn't know where to start? If the answer is yes then these are the gloves for you! This free fingerless gloves knitting pattern uses a simple knit 2, purl 2, ribbed design, an easy method for creating the thumb & is knitted flat. You'll be wondering why you didn't take the leap sooner. This post may contain affiliate links. As a Lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! Menu Materials Abbreviations About the yarn Construction Making a swatch Swatch pattern Main pattern What materials do you need for this free fingerless gloves pattern? Lion Brand Icecream Yarn in the shade Tutti Frutti - 1 ball. 4mm straight or circular knitting needles. Darning needle - for sewing up. Tip: Using a circular needle means you can check the fit of your gloves as you work. Abbreviations St(s) – stitch(es) K – Knit Stitch P – Purl Stitch Rep – Repeat You can find video tutorials for the needed stitches on my Youtube channel. About the yarn: Lion Brand Ice cream is a self-striping sport weight yarn. It is 100% Acrylic making it easy to care for. Each 100gm ball is approx. 360 metres (394 yards) long. Good substitutes for this yarn would be Schachenmayr Catania Color which is a 100% cotton yarn or for a touch of luxury, you could try Hobbii yarn’s Unicorn yarn which is 75% Merino wool & 25% Polyamide. Construction: Although using a circular needle, the gloves are worked flat, back & forth & then seamed up the side once finished. Using the circular needle enables you to check the fit of the gloves as you progress through the pattern. Making a Swatch: It’s important to make a gauge swatch as, if you cannot match the gauge given, your gloves may not be the size intended. Making a swatch will also help you to get used to the pattern repeat before starting the full pattern. Top tip – don’t cut or fasten off your yarn after you finish the swatch. Simply pop a stitch marker in, check your measurements are correct & then you can undo your swatch & use the same yarn to start your gloves. Swatch Pattern: Cast on 39 St’s using the thumb method. Row 1 – K3, *P2, K2, Rep from * to end. (39 St’s) Row 2 – *K2, P2, Rep from * until the last St, P1 (39 St’s) Repeat these 2 rows until you have 30 rows. Measure across & down the centre of your swatch to see if it matches the measurements given above. If your swatch measures smaller, try increasing your needle size. If it’s too big, try going down a size. Pattern begins: Left Glove – Cast on 49 St’s using thumb method (this will give a nice stretchy cuff to the glove), & leaving a long tail (approx. 50cm). Row 1: K3, *P2, K2, Rep from * to end. (49 St’s). Row 2: *K2, P2, Rep from * until the last St, P1 (49 St’s). Repeat these 2 rows until you complete Row 38. Shaping the thumb (Left glove) Row 39 – K3, *P2, K2, Rep from * 4 more times, cast off 8 St’s, *P2, K2, Rep from * 3 more times, P2. (41St’s). Row 40 – *K2, P2, Rep from * 3 more times, K2, Cast on 8 St’s using thumb method, *P2, K2, Rep from * 4 more times, P3. (49 St’s). Row 41-54 – Rep rows 1 &2. Cast off loosely & use long cast on tail to seam up the sides using the mattress stitch. Weave in ends. Right Glove - Repeat instructions for left glove until you have completed Row 38 Shaping the thumb (Right glove) Row 39 – K3, *P2, K2, Rep from * 3 more times, Cast off 8 St’s, *P2, K2, Rep from * 4 more times, P2. (41 St’s). Row 40 - *K2, P2, Rep from * 4 more times, K2, Cast on 8 St’s using thumb method, *P2, K2, Rep from * 3 more times, P3. (49 St’s). Continue pattern, as for the left glove. Finishing off Cast-off loosely & use the long cast on tail to seam up the sides using the mattress stitch & weave in any loose ends There you have it! Easy right? You can also purchase an ad-free, downloadable PDF version of this pattern from my ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores. A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. Don't forget to tag me if you post your version on social media. You can comment below to let me know how you found it. 😊 Thanks for visiting my blog!

Who doesn't love the glow of tealights when the night's are drawing in - especially when the cost of lighting & heating our homes is at an all time high! Follow these steps to make your own colourful crochet tealight cosy's using objects most of us crafters have somewhere in our stash & simple beginner friendly crochet stitches. This post may contain affiliate links. As a Lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! What will you need to make your own colourful crochet tealight cosy? Ricorumi DK 100% cotton yarn in the colours Emerald, Orange & Raspberry in small amounts. Crelendo Crochet Yarn in Bright Yellow, small amount - If you are unable to get the yarns I used, you can use any DK cotton yarn in the colours of your choice. 3mm Crochet Hook . Locking Stitch Marker. Small glass Jar - I used a couple of jars that originally held yogurt but you could use whatever jars you have around the house & just add additional stitches or rounds as needed. Creating the base. Using your first colur (C1), make a slip knot leaving a cast on tail of around 10cm / 4", ch3, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 - ch1 (counts as 1 stitch), 1dc into ring (place marker in ch1, 6 more dc into ring, ss to ch1. (8st's). Continmm ue to use the stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. Round 2 - starting in stitch with the marker, 1ch & 1dc in first st, *2dc in next st, Continue from * to end, ss to first ch. (16st's). Round 3 – ch3 & 1tr into first st (with marker), *1tr into next stitch, 2tr into next st, continue from *to end, ss to top of first ch3. (24st's) Round 4 – ch3 & 1tr into first st, *1tr into next st, 2tr into next st, continue from * to end, ss to top of first ch3. (36st's). Now it's time to start building the sides for your tealight cosy. Start by checking your base against your jar & if your jar is a little larger you can continue to increase the base by adding 4st’s evenly across each round. If your base fits nicely continue as follows. Round 5 - Continue in C1. ch3 (counts as 1 stitch), 1tr into each st. (36st's). Round 6 – ch3 into first stitch, 1tr into next st, *ch2, skip the next 2st’s, 1tr into each of the next 2st’s, continue from * until 2 st's remain, ch2, ss to top of beg ch3. Fasten off C1. (36st's). Round 7 - Attach your second colour (C2) to the top of any second tr (see photo) ch4, *1tr into centre of 2ch space, ch1, 1tr into second tr, ch1, repeat from * until the last ch2 space, 1tr into ch2 space, ch1, ss to third ch of ch4 at beginning of round. Fasten off C2. (36st's). Round 8 - Attach your third colour (C3) to the centre of any yellow ch space (see photo) ch5, miss next ch space, ss into the centre of next ch space, *ch5, miss next ch space, ss to next ch space, repeat from * until 3 ch spaces remain, ch5, miss next ch space, ss to next ch space, ch5, ss to bottom of first ch5. Fasten off C3. (45st's). Round 9 - Attach your fourth colour (C4) to the centre of any ch5 space, ch1 (counts as 1st), 2dc in same space, *5dc in next ch5 space, repeat from * 7 more times, 2dc in first ch5 space, ss to first ch. Fasten off C4. (45st's). Round 10 - Re-attach C3 in any central dc (see picture), ch5, *miss two st's, 1tr in next st, ch1, miss one st, 1tr in next st, ch2, repeat from * 7 more times, miss two st's, 1tr in next st, ch1, ss to third ch of beginning ch5. Fasten off C3. (45st's). Round 11 - Re-attach C2 to the top of any tr, ch1, *2dc in ch space, 1dc in tr, repeat from * all the way around, ss to first dc. Fasten off C2. (54st's). Round 12 - Attach your fifth colour (C5) to any dc, ch3 (counts as one st), *miss one st, 1tr in next st, repeat from * to end, ss to top of beg ch3. Fasten off C5. (26 st's). Round 13 - Re-attach C3 in the top of any tr, ch3 (counts as one st), one tr in the top of every tr to end, ss to top of beg ch3. (26st's). Fasten off & weave in ends. There you have it - a colourful crochet tealight holder in less than an afternoon & a bit of up-cycling at the same time! This pattern is written in UK Terms but is also available as an ad-free pdf with both UK & US terms in my ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores. A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. Don't forget to tag me if you post your version on social media. You can also comment below to let me know how you found it. 😊

This post may contain affiliate links. As a Lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! It's a question that's probably as old as the two crafts but why? Should we really feel that we "have" to choose one over the other? Don't both have pro's & cons? Clearly, I'm a fan of both. So, my opinion might be biased which is why I've done a little research on the topic & in this post I'm going to share my unbiased conclusions with you. In this post we will look at: The benefits of each craft The negatives of each craft My conclusions First, what are the benefits? Knitting & crochet have both been shown to have positive effects on mental and physical health, including reducing symptoms of depression, anxiety, and chronic pain, but lets look at how. Gaining a sense of accomplishment. Being able to express your creativity & self-expression. Relaxation & stress relief. Improved hand-eye coordination & cognitive function. Social connections. Cost efficiency. A sense of accomplishment The first benefit that you can get from either craft is the sense of accomplishment that you get when you finish a project, boosting your mood & self-esteem. Both knitting & crocheting can be challenging at times, requiring concentration, patience & occasionally frustration. With practice & determination though, you can master the techniques & create beautiful, even delicate items. I mean, you start with a ball of yarn & end up with a usable item - it doesn't matter if it's a coaster or cardigan - you made it! Honestly, I still fell that same boost of confidence every single time I finish a project. That "I made this" feeling is pretty hard to beat! Another way that you'll get that same feeling of accomplishment is when you hand over something unique, made with your own hands to a friend or loved one. When you see the appreciation they have for that gift, you can't help but glow from the inside. 😊 Creativity & Self-expression The second benefit that is also gained from either craft is the ability to create unique, handmade items that express your personal style & creativity. There are endless possibilities in terms of color, texture, and design in either craft, making it easy to create unique & personal pieces. This doesn't only apply if you're "free-styling" because even if you're following a pattern, it's a pattern that you've chosen, using yarn that you chose, in colours that you like. So either way you are creating the things that you want to wear or surround yourself with. This also applies when you're making something to gift. You can make something that truly "fits" the person or people that you're making it for in terms of style, colour & even personality, making it a truly unique & extra special gift. Relaxation & stress relief Thirdly, both knitting and crochet can help with relaxation and stress relief in several ways. The repetitive motions & focused attention required in both activities can be meditative & calming, promoting relaxation and reducing stress. Additionally, the sense of accomplishment that comes with completing a project can boost mood and self-esteem. Knitting and crochet can also provide a way to disconnect from screens and other distractions, allowing for a mindful and soothing activity. Improved hand-eye coordination & cognitive function The repetitive movements involved in both crafts can help improve hand-eye coordination and dexterity. In both knitting & crochet it's important to pay close attention to the placement of your stitches & the tension of the yarn, this requires both visual tracking & hand-eye coordination. This repetition helps to strengthen the connection between the eyes & the hands, improving fine motor skills, hand-eye coordination & dexterity. Also, the mental focus required for both crafts has been shown to have a positive effect on cognitive function. although more research is needed to fully understand the connection between crafting & cognitive function, many people find that knitting & crocheting can be a fun and beneficial hobby that can help to improve their mental abilities This makes both crafts particularly beneficial for anyone looking to maintain or improve their hand-eye coordination & cognitive function. Social connections Knitting & crocheting can both have a positive impact on social connections in several ways. Both crafts often have their own communities through knitting or crochet groups both in-person & online, where individuals are able to share their passion for their craft & connect with others who have similar interests. These groups can provide opportunities for socialisation & building connections with others who share your interests. Also, both knitting & crocheting can be enjoyed as a shared activity. For instance, getting together with friends or family members to work on a project together, sharing tips, advice, and conversation. This can create a real bond between people & provide a sense of community. As I've already mentioned, knitting & crocheting can also be used to create handmade gifts for others. This can create an opportunity to connect with others through the process of gifting & appreciation for the effort & love put into a handmade item. Cost efficiency Knitting & crocheting can be a cost-effective way to create items such as clothing, accessories, & home decor, as well as offering opportunities to repurpose & upcycle materials. There are tons of affordable yarns out there, meaning that both knitters & crocheters are able to choose yarns that are suitable for their budget. Depending on the yarns that you choose, it is possible to save money by making your own knitted / crocheted items compared to shop-bought items. The ability to make handmade gifts for friends and family can also potentially be more affordable than buying ready made gifts. Handmade items often last longer than mass manufactured, shop bought items making them more cost-effective long term. As has already been mentioned, both knitting & crocheting can be a real source of stress relief, potentially saving you money by not having to buy the traditional medications used to treat stress-related illnesses. NOT that I'm suggesting you ditch any medicines that you might be taking & just take up craft instead! Of course, the cost-effectiveness of knitting or crochet can vary depending on each individual's spending habits & the kind of projects they decide to tackle. So, are there any benefits to knitting that crochet doesn't have & vice versa? As I've already mentioned, I believe that both knitting & crochet are wonderful crafts, but are there any areas in which one has the edge over the other? Tension control It's generally believed that it is easier to maintain your tension (which is important if you need to match the gauge in a pattern) with knitting, compared to crochet. This is for a number of reasons. Firstly, knitting stitches tend to be consistent in size, as opposed to crochet stitches which can vary in height within a given row. Secondly, the very fact that you are using 2 needles instead of one can give you more control over the tension of your yarn. Thirdly, due to the way that knitting stitches are constructed it can sometimes be easier to undo mistakes (if I'm working on a large project, after a few rows I will thread a strand of different coloured yarn along the row that I just worked & then move it up after every 4-6 rows. That way, if you do go wrong, you can undo your wok to that point & carry on). This means that it can be less stressful to adjust your tension if needed. Easier to learn Many people feel that crochet is easier to learn & faster to work up than knitting. This is definitely controversial though. Knitting really only requires you to learn 2 basic stitches, knit & purl. Once, you've mastered them it is simply a case of combining them in different ways to form different stitch patterns. Crochet however, has a larger number of basic stitches to learn. Once you get used to them though, there are many variations & combinations that they can be used in to create a wide range of stitch patterns. It could be argued that this makes crochet far more versatile. Speed This is another controversial one, some people find crocheting faster & some people find they can knit faster. It comes down to a number of different factors such as: What weight yarn you are using. What size hook / needles you are using. Your level of skill & experience in each craft. Whether you find it easier to hold a hook or needles. The type of hook or needles you are using - ie; wood, aluminium etc. Are there any negatives to either craft? As with most activities, both knitting & crochet can have potential downsides. So lets have a look at them in more detail. Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI). Cost of supplies. Yarn addiction. Frustration with mistakes. Time Commitment. Limited mobility or disability. Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) Knitting & crochet both involve repetitive motions of the hands, wrists & arms, so if you spend long hours either knitting or crocheting, there is the potential that you could develop repetitive strain injury, such as carpal tunnel, tendinitis, trigger finger, or tennis elbow. To reduce the likelihood of developing an RSI, it's important to make sure that you take regular breaks & stretch your hands & wrists. Using good quality, ergonomic hooks, Knitting needles & techniques will also help. You should also try to vary the types of projects & stitches that you work on to avoid overusing the same muscles & tendons. Cost of supplies Depending on the type of yarn & supplies that you choose, the cost of starting & continuing to knit or crochet can add up. The cost of the yarn you use for knitting or crochet can vary widely. High quality fibres like wool, alpaca & silk can be pretty expensive. Also, if you are wanting to purchase yarns that have been sustainably sourced, these can have a higher price tag due to the extra expenses incurred. Even synthetic yarns can be expensive, depending on the quality. Initially though, you don't have to purchase an expensive yarn to "have a go". There are however, a good range of inexpensive yarns available in local yarn shops & also online. If you really want to use high quality yarns though, look our for sales & special offers to bring down the cost. If you want to learn to knit or crochet, there are some specific tools that you will need. Again, these vary widely in cost, with specialty hooks & needles sometimes needing serious money. Basic tools can be pretty inexpensive though & perhaps you could even loan the basics from a friend to start with. Patterns also vary widely in cost, but many designers & yarn companies offer free patterns in the form of blog posts & often even as PDF downloads during special campaigns. Ultimately, the cost of knitting & crochet can be high, but it doesn't have to be. Yarn addiction Yep, you read that right. It might not be an official medical diagnosis but it is real. Many people enjoy working with yarn so much that they may experience a strong desire to collect & work with yarn. Although the term "yarn addiction" is generally used in a lighthearted & playful way & not really considered serious, for some people this "addiction" can be so bad that it interferes with their daily life or finances. It's important to say that this is more accurately described as a hoarding or compulsive buying disorder & that for most people collecting & using yarn is simply an enjoyable hobby that gives them a creative outlet & a way to relax. However if you do find that your yarn collection or crafting habits in general are interfering with your daily life, finances, or relationships, then it might be helpful to seek the advice of a mental health professional or addiction specialist. Frustration with mistakes Knitting & crocheting can at times be unforgiving, & mistakes can be difficult to fix. This can be seriously frustrating, especially if you're a beginner working on a more complex project. When you've spent hours, even days working on a project & then spot a mistake near the start, it can be frustrating & even demotivating, knowing that all those hours of work will have to be undone & restarted can even bring you to tears - or maybe that's just me 😉 When you make a mistake in your work, it can feel like a personal failure, again, leading to feelings of frustration and disappointment. Despite the frustrations that can come with those mistakes though, it's important to remember that they are a normal part of the learning process. Even experienced knitters & crocheters that you might aspire to be like will have made those same mistakes when they were starting out. Try to see your mistakes as an opportunity to learn & grow your skills. By approaching mistakes with a growth mindset and a willingness to learn, it is possible to turn frustration into a positive learning experience. Time Commitment It's generally accepted that both knitting & crochet can be time-consuming but why? Fine motor skills are required for both knitting & crochet. These take time to practice & develop, but with practice you will get quicker. The size of the project that you choose will also impact the length of time that it's going to take to complete. For instance, a wash cloth might be finished in a few hours, whereas a throw or blanket might take months. The pattern that you choose will also imp[act the time needed to complete it. The more complex the pattern, the longer it's likely to take you, especially if it's a stitch pattern that you haven't tried before. The type of yarn that you use will also make a difference. A thinner, more delicate yarn will need to be worked using a smaller hook / needles & will require more concentration, slowing down the process. For many, it is the slow, meditative process of these crafts that hold appeal & the sense of accomplishment that comes from completing a project that has taken hours / weeks to complete can be really rewarding. Limited mobility or disability For those with limited mobility or a disability that affects their upper limbs, knitting & crochet can be difficult. However, there are many adaptive techniques & tools available that can help. For example, if you have limited mobility of your upper limbs, maybe you could knit or crochet using your feet or mouth. If you have limited movement in your hands, then perhaps larger needles or hooks would help since they require less fine motor control. You could also try using knitting or crochet aids, such as ergonomic hooks or needles, or tools that help you grip & hold the yarn more easily. Another option might be to use a knitting machine or special mouth-held knitting or crochet hooks, making these crafts more accessible for you. There are many online communities & resources available for knitters & crocheters with disabilities which can provide advice, support, & inspiration for overcoming the challenges of knitting or crochet with limited mobility. Ultimately, it is possible to experience the joy & pleasure that come from these crafts, even with limited mobility or disabilities, by exploring the resources available. It is important though to listen to your body and take breaks as needed to avoid injury, and to set realistic expectations for the time and cost involved in your projects. Conclusion In conclusion, the argument of whether knitting or crochet is "better" doesn't really stand up. We are all different, so "one size fits all" doesn't really apply. Just because "Brenda" next door would only ever crochet & thinks knitting is impossible, doesn't mean that it will be the same for you. It really does come down to personal preference. You may or may not prefer one over the other, you may find you love both. There are so many benefits to either craft that they far outweigh the generally minor, downsides. My advice would be to give both a try. Start with something easy like a coaster, wash cloth or scarf. Pick a yarn that is light coloured so that you can easily see your stitches & one that doesn't split whilst your working it - a bad yarn experience can literally stop you in your tracks. Make sure that you set a realistic goal for your first project. Don't set your expectations too high - remember we all fell off our bikes a few times before we actually learned to ride it! Set a budget for the cost of your project & try not to exceed it. Now, go have fun... I'd love to hear how you get on so why not let me know in the comments below or on your favourite social media platform.

In line with the crochet video tutorials that I share on youtube & here in the video tutorials section of the website I thought it was high time to add a really easy, beginner crochet pattern that you can access for free. So, here it is - the Oatmeal Crochet Coasters! The perfect pattern, even if you are right at the beginning of your crochet journey & looking for a simple, quick to complete, project that will soon have you wanting more. This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! These coasters will be more than just be practical, they'll look so good that they'll take pride of place in your home! You could make them in any colour to co-ordinate with your decor. Before you know it, you'll be making multiple sets for friends & family - in fact I would encourage it as they'll be great practice for the fundamental skills you'll need to set you on the road of becoming a master crocheter! As you grow in confidence you could easily add a few extra stitches & rows to turn them into co-ordinating place mats, you'll soon be wondering why you didn't learn to crochet sooner! Easy crochet coaster pattern details This post contains the free version of my 'Oatmeal Coasters' pattern which uses only double crochet stitches throughout making it super easy even if you've never crocheted before! You can also purchase a printable PDF version for a small fee in my ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores. The pattern is written in UK terms & is a simple, 1 row repeat (in other words after creating your foundation chain, you do the exact same thing for each & every row). Which yarn should you choose? I used Paintbox Yarns Wool mix Aran in the shade Banana Cream -1 ball will make 4 coasters. This is a 50% wool/50% Acrylic yarn (I wouldn't recommend using anything with more than 50% Acrylic due to it not being as heat tolerant) & comes in an impressive 48 different colours.. You can also use you're preferred Aran weight yarn but do bare in mind that as these are coasters, a yarn made from natural fibres such as wool or cotton is your best option as it is more heat tolerant than acrylic - I know you'd hate to put in all that effort to create something beautiful only to have it melt the first time you put a hot mug on it. Terms used in the pattern ch – chain dc – double crochet st(s) – stitch(es) sl st – slip stitch You can find a video tutorial showing how to work each of these stitches on my Youtube channel. Materials Paintbox Yarns Wool mix Aran in the shade Banana Cream -1 ball will make 4 coasters. 5mm Crochet hook Darning needle (For weaving in ends). Tension 15 stitches & 16 rows over 10 cm. Finished size Approximately 10cm x 10cm after blocking. Pattern Row 1: ch16, 1dc into back of 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in back of each ch across. ch1, turn. 15st’s. (Watch this video tutorial for help with this) Row 2 – 1dc in each st across ( make sure to work through both loops of each st). ch1, turn. (15 st’s). Row’s 3–16 – Repeat row 2. (15 st’s). Row 17 – 1dc in each st across. Fasten off & weave in ends. Repeat 3 more times to get 4 coasters in total. Cut yarn, leaving approx. 10cm tail. Pull up your remaining stitch to make a larger loop & thread your yarn tail through. Pull gently to secure. Block your coasters to ensure nice straight edges. Repeat these simple steps to create as many coasters as you need. Finishing off Weave in all ends & block so that all edges are even & all four (or however many you make) are uniform. A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. You can comment below to let me know how you found it & if you use social media, you can tag me @duffyscraftdays.

Have you ever tried crochet post stitches? If not, then this free Basketweave washcloth pattern is the perfect introduction for you. This post contains the free version of my Basketweave Crochet washcloth pattern which uses front & back crochet post stitches to create a gorgeous, textured fabric. This pattern is written using UK Terms. You can also purchase a printable PDF version of this pattern which contains both UK & US Terminology for a small fee in my ravelry, Etsy or Ribblr stores. This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! Do you need to be an advanced crocheter for this pattern? You will need to know how to work treble crochet stitches for this pattern but you do not need to know how to work post stitches as I will explain it in this post. You can also find a video tutorial here. Basketweave Crochet washcloth pattern details The pattern has a 4 row pattern repeat which is used 6 times in total to create the washcloth. The washcloth hasn't been designed with a border but you could easily add a double crochet border. You can find a video tutorial detailing how to do this here. Which yarn should you choose? I used Paintbox Yarns Wool mix Aran in the shade Banana Cream -1 ball will make 2 washcloths. This is a 50% wool/50% Acrylic yarn & is available in 48 different shades. A wool mix yarn isn't necessarily the obvious choice for a washcloth but it works - I was trying to be frugal & use yarn that I had left over from another project. You can also use you're preferred Aran weight cotton yarn such as Paintbox yarns cotton Aran which is available in a whopping 63 shades - including banana cream 😊 Just make sure you check the yarn lengths for comparison as a ball of the wool mix Aran is 180m long compared to the cotton which is only 80m long. Terms used in this pattern ch – chain st(s) – stitch(es) tr – treble crochet fpdc– front post treble crochet bpdc – back post treble crochet Materials Paintbox Yarns Wool mix Aran in the shade Banana Cream -1 ball 5mm Crochet hook Yarn needle (for weaving in ends) Gauge 15 stitches & 9 rows over 10 cm. Finished dimensions Approx 23.5cm x 23.5cm. How do to work Crochet Post stitches Post stitches are worked around the post of the stitch, instead of through the top of the stitch. Once your hook is around the post, work the treble crochet stitch as normal. ie; yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through two remaining loops on hook. You can also find a video tutorial for this stitch on my Youtube channel. Pattern begins Begin by creating a foundation chain of 36 st’s. Row 1: 1tc in 4th chain from hook. 1tc in each st across. Turn. (32 st’s) Row 2: ch3 (does not count as a st here or throughout pattern). 1fptr around each of the first 4 st’s from Row 1. *1bptr around the next 4 st’s from Row 1. 1fptr around each of the next 4 st’s from Row 1, Repeat from * 2 more times, 1bptr around the last 4 st’s from Row 1. (32 st’s). Row 3: ch3. 1fptr around each of the first 4 st’s from Row 2. *1bptr around the next 4 st’s from Row 2. 1fptr around each of the next 4 st’s from Row 2, Repeat from * 2 more times, 1bptr around the last 4 st’s from Row 2. (32 st’s). Row 4: ch3. 1bptr around each of the first 4 st’s from Row 3. *1fptr around the next 4 st’s from Row 3. 1bptr around each of the next 4 st’s from Row 3, Repeat from * 2 more times, 1fptr around the last 4 st’s from Row 3. (32 st’s). Row 5: ch3. 1bptr around each of the first 4 st’s from Row 4. *1fptr around the next 4 st’s from Row 4. 1bptr around each of the next 4 st’s from Row 4, Repeat from * 2 more times, 1fptr around the last 4 st’s from Row 4. (32 st’s). Repeat row’s 2-5 four more times. Fasten off. Finishing off Weave in all ends & block your work to ensure nice straight edges. You can read more about blocking in this blog post. A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. You can comment below to let me know how you found it & if you use social media, you can tag me @duffyscraftdays. 😊

So.... recently I spotted an online ad for a portable, mini washing machine. It was electric & folded flat(ish) for storage - by folded I mean squished 😂 Straight away I thought "ooh this could change the way I wet block forever!" I know this might sound extravagant to some but it was actually very reasonably priced - by "reasonable" I mean less than £10!! Including postage! (Sadly it is now a fair bit more than that). I'm not usually an impulse buyer, but as I have issues with my back & hip, standing for any length of time can be a struggle for me, as can the bending & repetitive motion of handwashing. So what could I do but hit the buy it now button 🤷‍♀️ In this post I will review the mini washing machine. You can use the following menu to navigate. First impressions of the mini washing machine The first use The correct instructions for the mini washing machine My overall opinion of the mini washing machine This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from any of those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! Less than a week later, our lovely postie arrived with my parcel & I couldn't wait to get it open. I dashed straight upstairs to my "office" (also known as the spare room 😂) & ripped off the packaging. First impressions of the mini washing machine I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the washing machine, when folded it measures just 10cm/4" tall & 30cm/12" wide. When opened out the machine measures 28cm/11" tall (about the size of a standard bucket) & can hold up to 8 litres of water. The washing machine also comes with a "drain basket", & power lead which don't fit into the machine once its folded so would need to be stored separately. The washing machine has a port at the back to connect the power lead, a drain at the side with a rubber plug, a control panel on the front & four suction feet on the bottom to help stabilise it when it's in use. My excitement waned though, when I picked up the instructions that came with the washing machine. Not only were they VERY basic, they were clearly written by someone with a limited knowledge of written English. I realised that my first use of the machine was not going to be as easy as I'd hoped but I was determined to give it a go. The first use The washing machine was simple enough to set up, I simply made sure that the plug was in the drain, filled it from the tap whilst adding a small amount of a gentle detergent & then plugged it in. Then the fun started! The first button on the control panel says "10 min standard washing" & displays a t-shirt, that's straight forward enough. The next button says "15 min soft washing" & displays underwear, OK, I assumed that represents a "gentle wash." Now, the third button says "2 min semi dehydration" & displays another t-shirt 🤷‍♀️🤦‍♀️ OK, now I was confused & my head was starting to hurt. Should I press this to start the draining? The instructions indicate that the machine drains automatically so I'm guessing not. It's fair to say that first wash didn't go particularly well. All of those buttons got pressed! Thankfully I was only washing a baby dress, but I was so exasperated that I decided to rinse it by hand. I then had to dry the machine thoroughly before I could store it! All in all, at that point I wasn't feeling very positive about the washing machine. I felt that the experience wasn't really any less physical & was definitely more stressful, than just handwashing. I created a review on Youtube after that first half failed attempt & I was definitely sitting on the fence about the washing machine, feeling that there were just as many cons as pros. However, having now used the machine a couple of times, I have worked out that the third button is used after emptying the machine as a "spin" cycle 💡this "revelation" made all the difference. The Correct instructions for the mini washing machine So, as I said, I've now used the washing machine a few times & now understand the controls, even if I don't understand the instructions. The washing machine is actually straightforward to use, as follows: Fill the washing machine with water from your tap, adding detergent as you do. For a cool wash, use mainly cold water, adding just a little hot. I fill mine to the top of the dark purple section. Don't add the basket at this point. Add the item/s that you want to wash. Choose either the 10 min or 15 min cycle depending on what you are washing. At the end of the cycle, the washing machine will drain automatically - You'll want to make sure you have it positioned near a sink (I place mine on the draining board) & you'll need to remove the rubber plug from the drain located on the side. As the water empties, remove the washing & place it into the drain basket & pop it back into the machine. After the machine has completely emptied completely, ensure that the basket is correctly inserted & fixed on the locating arms, now press the semi dehydration button & the machine will run a 2 minute spin cycle. Next, replace the rubber plug. Remove the basket from the washing machine & replace the washing. Fill the washing machine with cold water only. Repeat steps 3 - 6 to "rinse" your items. My overall opinion of the mini washing machine With a couple of uses under my belt I have been "swayed" in favour of the machine. Now that I understand how to use it properly, I feel comfortable to leave it during the cycle (setting a timer on my watch a couple of minutes before the cycle ends), which means I'm not standing for a long period of time. It's also quick to fill & drain due to it's compact size & most importantly, now that I understand how to use the "spin" function, I no longer have to stand over the sink & squeeze the water out of my smaller makes. In the youtube review that I did, I said that I probably wouldn't purchase the washing machine again at full price, but now I know that I would, simply because it's better for my back! A final note! I hope you've enjoyed this review & would love to hear your thoughts. Why not let me know in the comments below. You can also let me know if you would like to see more product reviews like this.

It's finally released!! The Peaches & cream baby blanket is my first published baby blanket pattern & I know that not everyone is in a position to purchase PDF crochet patterns. So for the first time I decided to launch the free version of this gorgeous shell stitch baby blanket here on the blog, at the same time as the PDF version is released so that no one misses out or has to wait 😊 You can find the downloadable PDF in my Ravelry, Etsy, or Ribblr stores. This post may contain affiliate links. As a lovecrafts Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means that if you make a purchase from those links, I will receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! So I shall get straight to it ..... Construction About the yarn You will also need Gauge Making a swatch Swatch pattern Pattern begins Border Construction The main blanket is worked flat using mainly treble crochet shell stitches. The Shell stitches are created by working 5 treble crochet stitches into 1 stitch from the row below, with 1 double crochet worked either side of it. (You can find a video tutorial here). The blanket border is created with a row of half treble crochets followed by a row of half treble puff stitches with 2 chain stitches either side. The puff stitch is created by working a half treble crochet & then working a half treble crochet 3tog around the post of the stitch just made (you can find a video tutorial here). About the yarn for this shell stitch crochet baby blanket Knit & Purl baby yarn is a chunky (#5 weight) chenille yarn sold by Aldi here in the UK. Each 100gm ball is approx. 95metres (104 yards) long. This lovely soft yarn creates a gorgeously squishable blanket for baby. Good substitutes for this yarn would be Bernat baby blanket yarn or Hobbii yarn's baby snuggle solid. You will also need: an 8 mm (US size L) crochet hook A pair of embroidery scissors a darning/yarn needle for weaving in ends Abbreviations: ch – chain st(s) – stitches dc – double crochet htr – half treble crochet tr – treble crochet htr3tog – half treble 3 together Please note that this pattern uses UK terminology throughout. The PDF version version which includes both UK & US terminology is available to purchase for a small fee here. Gauge: 3 complete shell stitches tall X 2 shell stitches wide over 10 cm (4”). The finished size of your blanket should be approx 80cm (31.5”) x 54cm (21.25”). Making a Swatch: It’s important to make a gauge swatch as, if you cannot match the gauge given, your blanket may not be the size intended. Making a swatch will also help you to get used to the pattern repeat before starting the full blanket. Top tip – don’t cut or fasten off your yarn after you finish the swatch. Simply pop a stitch marker in, check your measurements are correct & then you can undo your swatch & use the same yarn to start your blanket. Swatch Pattern: Row 1: Chain 17. Turn. 1dc in 2nd chain from hook & in each st across. Turn. (16 st’s) Row 2: ch3 (counts as 1st st here & throughout pattern). 2tr in the same st. skip two. 1dc, *Skip two, 5tr in next st, skip 2, 1dc. Repeat from * across. Turn (16 st’s). Repeat row 2 Five times. Remove your hook, insert a stitch marker & measure the centre of your swatch to see if it matches the measurements given. If your swatch measures smaller, try increasing your hook size. If it’s too big, try going down a size. Pattern begins: Row 1: Chain 50. Turn. 1dc in 2nd chain from hook & in each st across. Turn. (49 st’s) Row 2: ch3 (counts as 1st st here & throughout pattern). 2tr in the same st. skip two. 1dc, *Skip two, 5tr in next st, skip 2, 1dc. Repeat from * across to the last 3 st’s, skip two, 3tr in last st. Turn (49 st’s). Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout pattern), 1dc in same st, *skip two, 5tr in next st, skip two, 1dc. Repeat from * to end. (49 st’s). You can find a video tutorial for this pattern here. Repeat row’s 2 & 3 until you have 42 rows (ending with a Row 2) then continue to border. Border: You can find a video tutorial for this border here. Round 1: Begin by turning your work & working back along the last row of the pain pattern as follows: Ch1, 1dc in the same st & in each of the next two st’s, *1htr in each of the next three st’s, 1dc in each of the next three st’s. Repeat from * until you reach the last st of the row. Into the last st of the row, work 1dc, 1ch & 1dc. (49 st’s – the second dc in the last st will count as the first st down the side). Now work down the side of the blanket as follows: Into each ch3 space, work 2dc’s. Into each dc space, work 1dc. In the final dc (from row 1) work 1dc, 1ch, 1dc. (64 st’s) Work 1dc into each ch1 space along the bottom, working 1dc, 1ch & 1dc into the last st. (49st’s) Work back up the side of the blanket as you did for the first side. In the final ch3 space, work 2dc’s, 1ch & 1dc. Ss to the first dc of this round. (64 st’s) 226 st’s in total for round 1. Round 2: ch2, 1htr in same st. Skip the next st. *1htr in next st. htr3tog around the st just created. Skip the next st. Repeat from * around, adding in 2ch st’s at each corner. Ss to the top of the first htr of the round. Finish by htr3tog around the same htr. (76 “bobbles” in total for this round). Fasten off, weave in ends & finally block your work to ensure nice straight edges & good definition of your stitches. A final note! I really hope you've enjoyed using this free pattern & would love to see your versions. Don't forget to tag me if you post your version on social media. You can comment below to let me know how you found it.

Lets look deeper into the beauty of crochet shell stitches. If you've ever wondered how to add texture and elegance to your projects, shell stitches may be your answer. In this blog post, I'll walk you through what crochet shell stitches are, the diverse range of projects they can be used in & the exciting variations you can explore to create stunning crochet masterpieces. For a step by step guide to working crochet shell stitches, check out my YouTube tutorial. Understanding crochet shell stitches Projects Perfect for Shell Stitches Exploring variations & customisation In conclusion Understanding crochet shell stitches Crochet shell stitches are a group of stitches worked together to create a fan or shell-like shape. They consist of multiple treble crochets, double treble crochets, or other combinations of stitches worked into the same stitch or space. Shell stitches create a striking & textured effect that can elevate the simplest of projects to new heights. By varying the number of stitches within each shell, the spacing between them or even the yarn weight, you can achieve different levels of density & drape. The versatility of shell stitches allows you to adapt them to suit a wide range of crochet projects. Projects Perfect for Shell Stitches Shell stitches can be used in a multitude of crochet projects. From cosy blankets & scarves to delicate shawls & baby garments, the possibilities are endless. The open, airy nature of shell stitches makes them perfect for lightweight summer tops and wraps, providing a breathable & elegant touch. You can also incorporate shell stitches into home décor items such as table runners & cushion covers, filling your living space with a touch of handmade charm. When it comes to accessories, hats, bags & even fingerless gloves adorned with shell stitch motifs are transformed into eye-catching fashion statements. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced crocheter, incorporating shell stitches into your projects will undoubtedly add a touch of sophistication. If you have yet to try shell stitches, why not check out my video tutorial here. Exploring variations & customisation One of the greatest aspects of crochet shell stitches is their versatility & potential for customisation. By varying the height of the stitches within each shell, you can create different effects. Try experimenting with combining different stitch heights within the same row to add visual interest & dimension. Playing with the number of stitches within each shell, from two to six or even more, will achieve different levels of density. Also, altering the spacing between shells can create unique patterns, ranging from tightly packed rows to more open, lacy designs. In addition, altering the yarn weight, combining shell stitches with other stitch patterns, such as the ever popular granny square, can result in stunning combinations that showcase your own creativity. Don't be afraid to experiment & create your own variations to make your crochet projects truly one-of-a-kind. In conclusion Crochet shell stitches quite literally open up a treasure trove of possibilities, adding texture, beauty, & elegance to your projects. Embracing the versatility & endless variations of these timeless stitches will help you up your crochet game!